BON APPETIT : A PARIS GUIDE FOR FOODIES
I think practically the whole world is united by our love of good food. With Paris being one of the food capitals of the world, there are so many places to wine and dine here. So when a foodie friend asked for some recommendations for an upcoming trip to Paris, I was so excited to create this list of my favourite stops for them.
I have included the best restaurants, places to grab a bite to eat on the go, which French dishes to try at restaurants and bakeries, and which foodie souvenirs to pick up during your trip.
Restaurants
La Bouillon Chartier
I do not know how this restaurant slipped under my radar for so long. A friend told me about it recently and I was so impressed when we went. This super old (1896 old), super French restaurant is nestled in the 9ème, but despite its long wait line, people keep coming back. The food changes every day, but all remains very traditional French cuisine, think snails and Bourguignon.
This is not the sort of restaurant I’d recommend for an intimate date as it’s more akin to a fast food place. You are served by waitstaff, but it’s fast-paced, quick service and incredibly cheap. Go here for the experience of having a glass of wine in the queue for a table, being sat among a majority of French people, and trying new dishes without a big price tag if you don’t like something!
IT Trattoria
You know when a restaurant is so good and so cheap, you go there all the time and take all of your guests there too? That’s this place.
I discovered this amazing Italian in my first month here, and I think it would scare me to count how many times I’ve been. As far as food goes, it’s simple Italian cooking - pasta or pizza. Where this restaurant excels is the price and the speed; you can be eating 10 minutes after you’ve ordered, and a Margherita pizza is under €6 which is unheard of in Paris! While you’re there, try the tiramisu - you will not regret it.
Boca Mexa
If you’re looking for something a little different, Boca Mexa does incredible burritos and tacos that are really affordable too. You can customise your burrito with different meats or veggies, change your sauce and choose your additional fillings from a selection right in front of you. I like the restaurant on Rue Mouffetard, but there is another one in the 9ème too.
MUST TRY: L'Auberge Aveyronnaise
You may have seen this restaurant go viral on Buzzfeed recently and for good reason. This traditional French restaurant's signature dish is aligot, cheesy buttery smooth mashed potato. This is served with sausage, or plain with garlic. This is the best mashed potato you will ever eat.
This restaurant is very popular with locals, so try and make a reservation if you can, but if you have to wait a while, there are lots of cute places to get a drink in Bercy village around the corner.
Drinks
MUST TRY: La Comète
La Comète, in the 9ème, is an elegant mix of classy and cosy, and its copper and marble bar and decor add a beautiful modern touch. The vibe alone is worth going for, but the drinks are seriously out of this world good, their cocktails don't even taste like alcohol - dangerous. They use real fruit juices and homemade syrups, none of this Monin artificial stuff, and they are served in beautiful glasses and all arrive garnished and perfectly photogenic.
Another major plus, they have happy hour from 5.30-9pm every single night (yes, including Saturday!) where cocktails are just €5,50. This bar is just around the corner from Grands Boulevards, so there are lots of things to do close by too, including La Bouillon Chartier which is about 15 metres down the road.
On-the-Go Restaurants
Au P'tit Grec
As far as I'm concerned, this is the best crêperie in the city. I have explained my love for this place here, but I am just not ready to stop talking about it. Their menu is huge and so varied, the prices are competitive (aka cheap), portions are generous going on enormous, and the food is so tasty. They are very popular, so try and come at non-peak times, perhaps for a late lunch or an early dinner.
L'Esmeralda
As long as we're talking about crêpes, Esmeralda bistro on Ile de la Cité is my favourite place to get a crepe by the Notre Dame. There are a lot of rubbish tourist crêperies near the popular attractions on Ile de la Cite, so watch out. Esmeralda will serve you a very generously filled crêpe, which you can eat in the park behind the Notre Dame, which is right opposite. Esmeralda is right next to the bridge that connects Ile de la Cité and Ile St Louis.
Au Merveilleux de Fred
I first tried this patisserie shop in Lille, and was delighted to find out that they had multiple Paris locations! Their signature dessert, a merveilleux, is a little meringue which is covered in freshly whipped cream and dipped in toppings like chocolate shavings or crunchy coffee puffs.
Just a tip - if you're looking for a quick bite to eat, McDonald's is not the way to go. The menus are expensive (more so than in England) and they don't have a saver menu. Plus, there is actually nothing on the menu for vegetarians besides chips. Your best bet is to try a bakery(or one of my other suggestions!) if you need to grab something on the go.
Where to go for food if you haven't decided what you want!
Rue Mouffetard
I have made my love for this adorable little street in the 5ème clear in several other posts, but I’m still not tired of it. This street has more than a dozen restaurants on it that look incredible, and all different cuisines too - Japanese, French, Mexican, Greek and Cretian to name a few. These aren’t chain restaurants that will rip you off, they are cute cosy places to have some seriously good dinner. Rue du Pot de Fer is a small road that shoots off from Rue Mouffetard and has some amazing restaurants too, and very cute fairy lights and outdoor heaters all along it.
Bercy Village
Bercy village shopping street feels a world away from the busy centre of Paris. It’s pale stone arches are home to quite a few restaurants, mainly café types and American style restaurants. The famous Auberge Avreyonnaise is just around the corner too! Cour St Émillion on metro line 14 will take you right outside the village (not Bercy station).
Marché Bastille
If you are in Paris on the weekend, a Sunday morning stroll around the Bastille market is definitely in order. While you won’t be able to stock up on groceries, you can find lots of “ready to eat” type food here, for example, churros (incredible and so cheap), crepes, and pick up cheeses, fruits and fresh bread if the weather is nice enough for a picnic.
French dishes you have to try:
At a restaurant
French onion soup - you will never find a better version of this French classic than in France. Thick, rich onion soup with crusty bread and melty Gruyère cheese. Just be careful though, as French onion soup is deceptively not vegetarian (although it sounds like it would be) as it's made with beef stock.
Raclette - eating raclette is practically sacred as far as the French are concerned. This dish is usually served in the mountains when the French take their annual skiing holidays, but if you can find it on a menu in Paris then go for it. To assemble your perfect raclette plate just slice some boiled potato, top with charcuterie and then pour melted oozy raclette cheese on top.
Aligot - if you still haven't got your fill of cheese, then aligot will definitely satisfy that craving. It's pillowy mashed potato with so much oozy cheese and garlic. Try this at l'Auberge Aveyronnaise!
In a bakery
A Paris Brest - this delicious pastry is sort of like an eclair shaped into a ring, filled with praline whipped cream and finished with slivered almonds.
A Religieuse - this double-éclair treat attempts to emulate the mitre worn by bishops in the Christian church, hence the name. A small éclair sits atop a larger éclair, both filled with creme anglaise, topped with coffee or chocolate icing and decorated with whipped cream. This beauty photographs really well too, and will definitely make your friends back home jealous.
Millefeuille - the name translates to a thousand sheets, which describes the flaky puff pastry layers of this decadent French pastry. Three sheets of puff pastry sandwich vanilla creme anglaise, and are topped with icing that somehow seems so much sweeter than anything homemade.
A Viennoise - the Parisians go crazy for viennoises. You've probably tried them before without realising as they are essentially a brioche, chocolate chips optional (except, they're definitely not optional, are they). Although, a true French viennoise is much better than brioche from an eight-pack in the breakfast aisle of a UK supermarket.
Food Souvenirs
I am currently about the souvenirs you should be buying on your trip to Paris and will mention a few food items that are great to bring back home. As for savoury food, I would definitely recommend bringing back some mustard, and you can get them in different jars and flavour combinations which make perfect gifts. Fleur de Sel is also a great seasoning to bring home, and it's so much cheaper in France.
As for sweet items, you absolutely need to bring back a jar of confiture de lait. As far as I'm aware you can't get this in the UK, it's a sort of thick buttery caramel which goes so nicely with everything.
So there you have it: my Paris guide for people who love food (aka for all people). Please save yourselves from rip-off tourist restaurants on the Champs Elysees with bad quality food and go to one of these places instead. All that's left for me to say is Bon Appétit!
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