MARRAKECH CITY GUIDE / AROUND THE KASBAH

Part two of the Marrakech city guide

About a ten minute walk south of the Jeema-El-Fna, the bustling central square of the city, lies the interesting and richly cultural area in and around the Kasbah mosque. 

We visited three sites, the Badi Palace, the Saadian Tombs and the Kasbah mosque, which are all within a radius of less than a square kilometre. 

Despite visiting this area around noon, it was that nice level of quiet where you don't feel claustrophobic with tourists, but the market vendors don't all target you as there are other potential customers. Walking between the sites was fairly deserted.

The Kasbah Mosque

Unfortunately, but completely understandably, the mosque is closed to non-Muslims at all times. However, that didn't stop me from appreciating the outside - the shades of turquoise and teal are perfectly complimented by the gold accents which appear towards the top of the tower, or minaret. 

Coming from the Jeema-El-Fna, the Kasbah mosque's minaret is visible and provides that much needed reassurance that you've turned the right way. 

The Saadian Tombs

Just around the corner from the beautiful mosque is a little inconspicuous alleyway leading to the Saadian tombs. These interesting and ornate tombs were rediscovered in 1917 though they date back to the sixteenth century. The graves outside in the garden are those of servants and soldiers and inside the grand mausoleums are the graves of the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur and his family and descendants.
All of the outdoor tombs used this typical Moroccan tile pattern in shades of teal, mustard and charcoal, someone was even sat in the garden chiselling a piece of the mosaic into individual coloured tiles. 

The main attraction of the tombs is the grand white mausoleum of the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur. This was the only area we had to queue to see, however it was hardly any time at all. The entryway to this tomb is very small so waiting a few minutes is understandable.
The detail and ornate quality of this tomb was breathtaking. They have set up lights which reveal the smallest carving details in greater focus and taking it all in was just amazing. This also means that a visit later in the day, or in the darker months won't affect your experience too much.

The tombs are a little tricky to notice as they are literally behind a row of shops via an alley. However, if you've past the Kasbah mosque, which is definitely a more obvious landmark, the tombs are not too far away. The wall of the alley has a sign painted onto it, so watch out for that.


The Badi Palace


Behind the tombs and the Kasbah mosque is the ruined Badi palace, built for the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur (yes, the same one from the tombs). While the site is a ruin, it only takes a little imagination to picture how magnificent it once was. 

The old pools are either empty or abundant with lime and orange trees, but the tiling can still be seen on a few of them. 
At the ticket booth there is an option to buy entry to a small museum within the Badi palace which houses one of the oldest Islamic minbars (prayer pulpit) in existence. The history is all explained in multiple languages and the restoration of the minbar is displayed, which is fascinating.

In the bottom left corner of the palace ruins (from the entrance), there is an inconspicuous mosaic staircase which leads up to a rooftop viewing deck giving 360 views of the palace and surrounding area. This is a must see! And a good photo opportunity as well.
In the distance you can see the Koutoubia mosque minaret and in the opposite direction, the courtyard of the Badi palace and the Kasbah mosque.  

While these places are a little tricky to find (at least for us!), definitely persevere. The views from the Badi palace were incredible and the ornate white marble of the Saadian tombs was so unique.

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